Go Polypro

Revitalizing a high-function fiber with a fashion boost and a twist of eco

Textile suppliers are taking polypropylene forward in a range of new ways. Aesthetically, environmentally, and even globally, polypropylene seems poised for re-emergence. Some might even do a double take when seeing and touching today’s latest developments that are soft and colorful with an added “green” twist. Not to mention that these new versions arrive without sacrificing any of the function that makes polypro such an appealing high-performer.

In a marketplace constantly on the prowl for something new, contemporary polypro is attracting attention. “A lot of people are taking a second look at polypropylene,” comments Tracey Campbell, manager, market development for American Fibers and Yarns Company (AF&Y), suppliers of the Innova brand product. “In the past, the driver for polypropylene has been its many inherent favorable functional characteristics. But now there are other beneficial aspects as well.”

Certainly the “green” nature of polypropylene is one aspect gaining traction with product developers and designers eyeing the latest new products. Along with AF&Y, FiberVisions and Coville, too, are emphasizing the eco elements of today’s polypropylene. But, in addition, these companies are taking polypropylene into the lifestyle arena with new offerings that sport colorful prints and fashionable looks.

Advancing polypro’s image is the aim of CoolVisions dyeable polypropylene by FiberVisions. The company was initially intrigued by the concept of developing a dyeable polypropylene that would provide a path into the apparel market. The firm realized that being able to dye in the greige goods stage allowed for more color opportunities and this tech breakthrough opened up a whole new fashion aspect of polypropylene.

“People are starting to understand, and respond, and realize that they can differentiate with our product,” says Susan McGreal, national sales manager apparel, FiberVisions. “Also, because we work with staple fibers our product feels more like cotton and feel is a real differentiator for apparel people.”

Beyond aesthetics, however, the company has also worked on availability. “Being able to offer product out of Asia, which lowers the price, and to have available finer fabrics, that has been a game changer for us,” states McGreal.

FiberVisions now has approximately a dozen or so partners in Asia. The majority of mill partners are in Taiwan, but the company recently added a new one in Seoul, Korea and one in China. The CoolVisions product is still produced domestically, in Georgia, but now warehoused in a China free trade zone.

According to McGreal, the company has ties with a Taiwanese spinner, Chang-Ho, that is doing both apparel weight and heavier weight polypropylenes for backpacks. Chang Ho will offer a new line of CoolVisions products that includes 24 fabrics, both knits and wovens, launching at Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.

New wovens are available from Ruentex, Fountain Set and new partners Chia Her in Taipei, Taiwan and Bristex in Seoul , Korea. New knits are from Eclat and Brimadona. Denim is being offered from Central Textiles, while Joinfair will offer sweaters.

Other new developments from CoolVisions include working on a filament product; working with bamboo and working with recycled polyester. “These are real conversation starters,” says McGreal. “Both our global availability and fashion focus have propelled us forward.”

Performance Prints

While FiberVisions is a relative newcomer to the clothing business, Coville has long been a supplier of polypropylene knits in the apparel market. “Lately we have seen an increased interest in polypropylene — especially from the print-driven areas of the market,” explains Don Trexler, Coville president. “This led us to review ways in which we might solve the challenge of printed apparel with polypropylene content.”

Coville chose Alandale’s patented strataTek technology that combines various fibers or yarns into a single fabric. Specifically, Coville opted to use Innova antimicrobial polypropylene with organic cotton and nylon. The resulting fabrics, called the AM/P2 Collection, demonstrate how polypropylene can now be used in fabrics that are printed, fabrics that are environmentally-sustainable and fabrics that enhance the performance of other commonly used fibers.

All of the inherent performance properties of Innova polypropylene – antimicrobial, thermal regulation, moisture management, colorfastness and stain resistance – are maintained in these fabrics.

For printed applications, Innova polypropylene is placed on the underside of the strataTek platform while the print-substrate fiber is placed on the face side. The face side is then printed using a unique process developed specifically for this product, offering a fashionable performance garment using polypropylene as the functioning fiber against the skin.

“We are very excited about the various apparel markets this product will appeal to. We developed a unique printing process specifically for these products and will be showing the fabrics in hunting camo, fashion camo as well as yoga- and outdoor-inspired prints,” says Trexler. “We will also offer these products as solids.”

Henry Jordan, Coville founder, says he has recently been wear testing samples of the new AM/P2 products. In his role as a trustee for the Nature Conservancy, Jordan has been hiking in different areas of his home state of North Carolina. “The shirt kept me wonderfully warm when I needed it to be on cold days, and completely comfortable when I needed it to be in warm weather,” comments Jordan, who is recently retired. He is pleased by the advances in polypropylene coming on the market, and states, “I see a lot more innovation on the horizon.”

Promoting the Eco-Angle

One area of innovation is the greening of polypropylene. According to AF&Y, polypro has eco aspects that are in stride with today’s market priorities. For example, compared to other synthetics Innova yarns: require less energy to produce; produce the least waste generation of synthetic fibers; none of it harmful industrial waste; do not require potentially harmful topical treatments for performance and are recyclable.

“People have been unaware of the eco angle of polypropylene,” states Campbell. “Now that we are promoting it, we have gotten a lot of positive feedback. We started initially with the hospitality sector, but are now migrating across the board into other consumer markets.”

Campbell’s colleague Jeff Thommes, VP-sales and marketing, concurs. “The traditional business for AF&Y is not apparel. But this segment is now going to include critical efforts going forward.”

AF&Y has made efforts in certification, recycling and vendor partnerships to solidify its green platform. For example, the company worked with McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC) to achieve the Cradle to Cradle Product
Certification System. MBDC evaluation includes a comprehensive analysis of resin, pigment and additive concentrate formulations, as well as all finish ingredients. From those findings, MBDC rates each ingredient green, yellow or red based on their impact to human and environmental health. Those that rate green or yellow are considered “approved.”

“The overall manufacturing process of our yarns is an environmentally friendly process, requiring much less heat, water and disposal resources in comparison to other yarns, but we chose to undergo an assessment so that we have independent, validated information on our products,” said Jim Morelli, executive VP-sales and marketing.

To further it’s commitment to positive environmental practices, AF&Y launched a recycling program last year, in partnership with Plastex Incorporated, whereby it takes back all AF&Y yarns and fabrics made exclusively of AF&Y yarns to be recycled and regenerated to produce a variety of durable goods. Yarns and fabrics from apparel, upholstery and industrial markets are collected at the AF&Y Technology Center in Bainbridge, GA, and then sent onto Plastex where they are converted into inert plastic resin pellets.

“When you consider the products’ full life cycle, then polypropylene really shines,” says Thommes.

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